Where does this foam cleanser go in my routine?

As your first step, morning and evening, on a face already wet with lukewarm water. Nothing goes under it: this foam cleanser is the step everything else in the routine lands on top of. If you are adding it to a routine you already like, give it a week on its own first, so what you see is the Allantoin and not three changes at once.

Is this the Korean-market foam cleanser or a US version?

The Korean-market one, Allantoin and all. We match this foam cleanser to its Korean barcode before it reaches the shelf, which is the check that tells you which market release you are holding.

What else is on the list besides Allantoin?

Retinal, Salicylic Acid and Ceramide NP. The order they are printed in on this foam cleanser's panel is the order on the box, so you can see where Allantoin sits relative to them. Further down the same panel: Cholesterol, Ceramide AP and Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract.

Fation

Nosca9 Trouble Cleansing Foam 150ml

Name: Fation Nosca9 Trouble Cleansing Foam 150ml
Brand: Fation
SKU: 8123119452
Price: 32.5 USD
Availability: InStock

Fation Nosca9 Trouble Cleansing Foam is Fation's 150ml foam cleanser, formulated with Allantoin.

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$32.50

150 ml

$21.67 per 100 ml

Korean-market formula
Ships from California or direct from Korea
Korean barcode and batch code intact

Suited to: Congested skinUneven textureDry skinCompromised barrier

Helps with: Shoppers looking for Allantoin in a foam cleanserRoutines that want Allantoin and Retinal in one stepFilling the foam cleanser step with a Korean-market formulaAnyone who wants the Allantoin foam cleanser sold on Korean shelves

One-time purchase

$32.50

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How it works

The Nosca9 Trouble Cleansing Foam is a 150ml foam cleanser, used as your first step, morning and evening, on a face already wet with lukewarm water. The active it is built around is Allantoin, named twelfth on its own ingredient list. The same list carries Retinal, Salicylic Acid and Ceramide NP, so the active is not the only thing on it worth naming. How much of the Allantoin stays on the skin, and for how long, is decided by the foam cleanser format rather than by the list alone. This is the Original Korean Formula, the foam cleanser Fation sells in Korea, Allantoin and all.

Key benefits

Allantoin, the active this foam cleanser is built around
Retinal on the same list, an active
Salicylic Acid on the same list, an exfoliant
Ceramide NP and Cholesterol on the same list, barrier lipids
Ceramide AP and Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract further down the same list
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract and Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Flower Extract further down the same list

How to use

AM and PM. Massage over damp skin, working into a light foam, then rinse fully with lukewarm water before the next step.

1 of 3

60 of 62 explained

Water solvent: Water is the base almost every serum, toner and cream is built on. It dissolves the water-loving ingredients and sets how light the finished texture feels. On an INCI list it is usually first, which only means it is the largest single ingredient by weight.
Glycerin humectant: Glycerin is the most used humectant in skincare. It draws water into the outer layer of skin and holds it there, and it is one of the very few ingredients whose hydrating effect is settled science rather than marketing. Higher amounts feel tacky, which is why it is usually blended.
Stearic Acid fatty acid: Stearic Acid is a saturated fatty acid from plant fats, and one of the three lipid classes skin's own barrier is built from. In a formula it thickens, stabilises the emulsion and can be turned into a soap-style cleanser by adding a base.
Lauric Acid fatty acid: Lauric Acid is the coconut fatty acid that gives soap-style cleansers their dense foam. It is not well suited to blemish-prone skin at high levels.
Myristic Acid fatty acid: Myristic Acid is a saturated fatty acid used to thicken and, with a base added, to build the foam in a soap-style cleanser.
Potassium Hydroxide pH adjuster: Potassium Hydroxide is a strong base used in traces to raise a formula to its target pH. In a soap-style cleanser it also converts fatty acids into the surfactant that does the cleansing.
Glyceryl Stearate SE emulsifier: Glyceryl Stearate SE is the self-emulsifying grade, supplied with a little soap already built in so it can hold an emulsion with less help. It thickens and softens like the plain form.
1,2-Hexanediol humectant: 1,2-Hexanediol is a glycol used for two reasons: it holds water like glycerin, and it makes a formula harder for microbes to live in, so less traditional preservative is needed. Korean formulas use it heavily for that second reason.
Salicylic Acid exfoliant: Salicylic Acid is a BHA, and the only common exfoliant that is oil soluble, so it can work inside a pore rather than only on the surface. It loosens the dead cells that block pores and is used for the look of congested, oily skin.
Caprylyl Glycol preservative booster: Caprylyl Glycol is a glycol that conditions skin and, more importantly, strengthens a preservative system so less of the traditional preservative is needed. It appears in most modern formulas built without parabens.
Butylene Glycol humectant: Butylene Glycol is a small glycol that does two jobs at once: it holds water in the top layer of skin and it dissolves plant extracts and actives that plain water cannot. It also thins a formula, which is why watery Korean essences lean on it.
Allantoin active: Allantoin is a comfrey-derived compound used to condition skin and soften the outer layer so it feels smoother. It is one of the standard additions to a formula built for easily irritated skin.

48 more explained

Ethylhexylglycerin preservative booster: Ethylhexylglycerin softens skin and boosts a preservative system, which is why it is nearly always sitting beside phenoxyethanol or 1,2-hexanediol. It also cuts down the odour bacteria produce, so it turns up in deodorising products.
Disodium EDTA chelator: EDTA is a chelator: it locks up trace metal ions from water and packaging that would otherwise turn a formula cloudy, off-colour or rancid. It does nothing to skin and appears at a fraction of a percent.
Cetyl Palmitate emollient: Cetyl Palmitate is a wax ester, the same kind of molecule that makes up much of spermaceti and jojoba. It thickens the oil phase and leaves a smooth, non-greasy film.
Polyquaternium-7 film former: Polyquaternium-7 is a positively charged polymer, so it clings to hair and skin, which carry a slight negative charge. It conditions and reduces static.
Sodium Polyacrylate thickener: Sodium Polyacrylate is a polymer that absorbs many times its weight in water. It thickens a formula and holds water in a gel against the skin.
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil emollient: Olive Fruit Oil is high in oleic acid and plant sterols. It is a rich emollient that suits dry skin and is heavy enough that blemish-prone skin often does not get on with it.
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate emulsifier: Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a sugar-derived emulsifier known for a light, non-soapy feel. It builds gel-creams that do not read as rich.
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate emulsifier: Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a sugar-derived emulsifier and solubiliser, mild enough to be a standard choice in Korean essences. It dissolves small amounts of oil into water without any tightening feel.
Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract plant extract: Diospyros Kaki is the persimmon tree. Its leaf extract carries tannins and vitamin C and is used as an antioxidant extract.
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract plant extract: Grape Fruit Extract carries polyphenols and fruit acids. It is used as an antioxidant plant extract.
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Flower Extract plant extract: Safflower Flower Extract is a traditional East Asian dye and skincare plant. It is used as a conditioning antioxidant extract and can tint a formula.
Cetearyl Alcohol fatty alcohol: Cetearyl Alcohol is a waxy solid, not the drying kind of alcohol. It is a blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohols used to thicken a cream and keep oil and water from separating, and it softens skin as it does so.
Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract plant extract: Coffee Seed Extract carries caffeine and chlorogenic acid. It is used as an antioxidant extract and, in eye and body formulas, for the look of puffiness.
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract plant extract: Polygonum Cuspidatum is Japanese knotweed, the main commercial source of resveratrol. Its root extract is used as an antioxidant plant extract.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract plant extract: Camellia Sinensis is the tea plant. Green tea leaf extract carries catechins, among the most studied plant antioxidants, and is used for the look of redness and oily shine.
Castanea Crenata Shell Extract plant extract: Chestnut Shell Extract carries tannins and is used as an antioxidant plant extract, most often in formulas aimed at visible pores.
Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract plant extract: Zanthoxylum Piperitum is Korean pepper. Its fruit extract is used as a conditioning plant extract and is often paired with pulsatilla and usnea in Korean formulas.
Sodium Benzoate preservative: Sodium Benzoate is a mild preservative that works only in acidic formulas. It is usually paired with potassium sorbate, and the pair is the standard choice where a brand wants no phenoxyethanol.
Betaine humectant: Betaine is a sugar-beet-derived humectant that cells use to hold water. In a formula it hydrates and takes the edge off cleansers and acids, which is why it often appears alongside them.
Phosphatidylcholine emulsifier: Phosphatidylcholine is the main phospholipid in lecithin and in cell membranes. It emulsifies and forms the liposome walls a formula uses to carry an active.
Ceramide NP barrier lipid: Ceramide NP is the most used cosmetic ceramide, the same class of lipid that makes up roughly half the mortar between cells in the outer layer of skin. Added to a cream it slots into that structure, which is why ceramide formulas feel less leaky rather than merely greasy.
Cholesterol barrier lipid: Cholesterol is the third of the three lipids the outer layer of skin is built from, with ceramides and fatty acids. Formulas that carry all three are following the ratio skin itself holds.
Kaolin absorbent: Kaolin is white clay, the mildest of the cosmetic clays. It absorbs oil and lifts loose debris from the surface without stripping, which is why it is the clay used on drier skin.
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water plant extract: Rice Bran Water is the water from washing or steeping rice bran, the traditional Korean and Japanese rinse. It is used in place of plain water as a formula base.
Ceramide AP barrier lipid: Ceramide AP is a second cosmetic ceramide, distinguished by an extra hydroxyl group. Formulas that name several ceramides are copying the mix skin actually holds rather than relying on one.
Retinal active: Retinal is retinaldehyde, a vitamin A derivative one chemical step closer to retinoic acid than retinol is. It is yellow-orange and unstable in light, so products carrying it are usually opaque.
Propanediol humectant: Propanediol is a plant-derived glycol used in place of propylene glycol. It hydrates, carries actives into solution, and gives a lighter, less sticky slip than glycerin at the same strength.
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Powder absorbent: Rice ground to a powder, the ssalgaru of traditional Korean washing. It absorbs oil, softens the feel of a formula, and works as a very mild physical grain.
Glycine amino acid: Glycine is the smallest amino acid and one of the free amino acids skin holds to keep water in the outer layer. In a formula it is a humectant and a mild buffer.
Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate ferment: Ginseng root fermented with lactobacillus and strained. Fermentation cuts the large ginsenosides into smaller forms, which is why Korean brands ferment ginseng so often.
Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment ferment: Rice fermented with lactobacillus, the same bacteria behind kimchi and makgeolli. Fermentation breaks the rice starch into smaller sugars and amino acids that hold water.
Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract ferment: This is soybean fermented by lactobacillus. The fermentation breaks soy proteins into smaller pieces, which is what makes the extract easier for a formula to carry.
Serine amino acid: Serine is one of the most abundant free amino acids in the outer layer of skin, where it helps hold water. Added to a formula it is a humectant.
Glutamic Acid amino acid: Glutamic Acid is an amino acid used as a humectant and a mild pH adjuster. It is one of the components of skin's natural moisturising factor.
Aspartic Acid amino acid: Aspartic Acid is an amino acid used as a humectant and buffer, usually within a wider amino acid blend.
Leucine amino acid: Leucine is an essential amino acid used as a humectant, part of the amino acid block many Korean essences carry.
Alanine amino acid: Alanine is a free amino acid skin uses as part of its own moisture-holding system. In a formula it hydrates and conditions.
Lysine amino acid: Lysine is an essential amino acid used as a conditioning humectant in an amino acid complex.
Arginine amino acid: Arginine is an amino acid that does two jobs here: it holds water in the outer layer of skin, and it neutralises acidic gelling agents, which is why it often stands in for a synthetic pH adjuster.
Tyrosine amino acid: Tyrosine is an amino acid used as a conditioning humectant in amino acid complexes.
Phenylalanine amino acid: Phenylalanine is an essential amino acid used in skincare as a conditioning humectant.
Proline amino acid: Proline is an amino acid abundant in collagen and one of skin's own humectants. Added to a formula it holds water in the outer layer.
Threonine amino acid: Threonine is an essential amino acid used in skincare as a humectant, normally as part of an amino acid complex rather than alone.
Valine amino acid: Valine is an essential amino acid used as a humectant alongside the rest of an amino acid block.
Isoleucine amino acid: Isoleucine is an essential amino acid used as a conditioning humectant within an amino acid complex.
Histidine amino acid: Histidine is an amino acid used as a humectant and a buffer, part of skin's own free amino acid pool.
Cysteine amino acid: Cysteine is a sulphur-bearing amino acid used as a humectant and antioxidant. It is one of the three building blocks of glutathione.
Methionine amino acid: Methionine is a sulphur-bearing essential amino acid used as a humectant and mild antioxidant.

Inside the formula

Ingredients declared

No fragrance

on the list

Worth knowing

Patch test this foam cleanser on a small area and wait a day before using it more widely, especially with Allantoin on the list.
Retinal is on this list, so keep this foam cleanser to the evening and build the nights up slowly rather than starting nightly.
Salicylic Acid on this list makes this foam cleanser an exfoliating step, so do not stack it with another one on the same night.

Complete the routine

This itemFation Nosca9 Trouble Cleansing Foam 150ml$32.50
Prep after cleansing, before the treatment stepFATION Aqua Biome Toner Pad 170ml (80 pads)$20.00
The treatment step of this routineFATION Nosca9 Trouble Serum 30ml$35.00

Total for 3 items$87.50

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FATION Nosca9 Trouble Cleansing Foam 150ml

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Fation, Korean-market original

The Original Korean Formula foam cleanser from Fation, 150ml formulated with Allantoin and Retinal, shipped from California or direct from Korea.

Verify your unit when it arrives

Korean-market stock with the original barcode and batch code intact, exactly as it left Korea.

On the unit itself

The Korean-market barcode, unaltered from the retail package.
The manufacturer’s batch code, exactly as the maker printed it.

정품Genuine article, Korean-market stock

What professionals say

What skin-care professionals say about skin care, quoted from the medical sources linked beside each.

Your skin barrier is basically your outer layer of the skin.
Melissa Piliang, MDDermatologist, Cleveland Clinic
Pretty much every step of a Korean skin care routine is going to have some component of hydration.
Alok Vij, MDDermatologist, Cleveland Clinic