Where does this essence go in my routine?

After toner and before serum, morning and evening, on damp skin. Anything thinner than an essence goes on before it, and anything richer goes on after. If you are adding it to a routine you already like, give it a week on its own first, so what you see is the Soluble Collagen and not three changes at once.

Does this essence contain fragrance?

Yes. The ingredient list names Fragrance. It sits on the panel printed on this page, so you can read the position for yourself before you buy. If fragrance components are something you avoid, this essence is not the one.

What else is on the list besides Soluble Collagen?

Niacinamide, Adenosine and Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate. The order they are printed in on this essence's panel is the order on the box, so you can see where Soluble Collagen sits relative to them. Further down the same panel: Lactobacillus Ferment, Ceramide NP and Hydrolyzed Collagen.

Centellian24

Revitalizing Collagen Essence 30ml

Name: Centellian24 Revitalizing Collagen Essence 30ml
Brand: Centellian24
SKU: 5651489856
Price: 27.5 USD
Availability: InStock

Niacinamide is fifth on this 30ml essence's list, and the collagen the name points at is declared by weight: water-soluble collagen at 9,980 ppm fifteenth, hydrolyzed collagen at 9,000 ppm eighteenth.

Reviewed by Nurcan Saglam, licensed dermo-cosmetic expert (Paris)

No reviews yet

$27.50

30 ml

$91.67 per 100 ml

Korean-market formula
Ships from California or direct from Korea
Korean barcode and batch code intact

Suited to: Dry skinCompromised barrierDehydrated skinSensitive skin

Helps with: Shoppers looking for Soluble Collagen in an essenceRoutines that want Soluble Collagen and Niacinamide in one stepFilling the essence step with a Korean-market formula

One-time purchase

$27.50

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How it works

The Revitalizing Collagen Essence is a 30ml essence, used after toner and before serum, morning and evening, on damp skin. The protein it is built around is Soluble Collagen, named fifteenth on its own ingredient list. The same list carries Niacinamide, Adenosine and Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, so the protein is not the only thing on it worth naming. How much of the Soluble Collagen stays on the skin, and for how long, is decided by the essence format rather than by the list alone. Centellian24 sells this Soluble Collagen essence in Korea, and this is that version.

Key benefits

Soluble Collagen, the protein this essence is built around
Niacinamide and Adenosine on the same list, actives
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate on the same list, a peptide
Lactobacillus Ferment on the same list, a ferment
Ceramide NP and Hydrolyzed Collagen further down the same list
Collagen and Elastin further down the same list

Key actives

5Niacinamideactive

Niacinamide is vitamin B3, and it is the most studied active in Korean formulation. It is named fifth on this essence's list, alongside Soluble Collagen.

All products with Niacinamide

15Soluble Collagenprotein

Soluble Collagen is collagen kept in its intact triple-helix form and dissolved rather than cut up. It sits on the surface as a water-holding film. The name on the box points at it, and it is named fifteenth on this essence's own ingredient list.

23Adenosineactive

Adenosine is a nucleoside that Korea's own cosmetic authority recognises as a wrinkle-care functional ingredient, which is why it appears on so many Korean lists at a low level. It is used for the look of fine lines and is stable and well tolerated. It is named twenty-third on this essence's list, alongside Soluble Collagen.

All products with Adenosine

39Lactobacillus Fermentferment

Lactobacillus Ferment is the liquid left after lactobacillus bacteria have fermented a plant or milk substrate. It carries the small molecules the fermentation produced, including lactic acid and amino acids, and is used for the look of dull, uneven skin. The panel names it thirty-ninth on this essence's list, beside Soluble Collagen.

All products with Lactobacillus Ferment

44Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetatepeptide

A synthetic peptide sold as Syn-Ake, built to mimic a peptide sequence found in snake venom. It is used for the look of expression lines. The panel names it forty-fourth on this essence's list, beside Soluble Collagen.

All products with Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

1 of 3

39 of 45 explained

Water solvent: Water is the base almost every serum, toner and cream is built on. It dissolves the water-loving ingredients and sets how light the finished texture feels. On an INCI list it is usually first, which only means it is the largest single ingredient by weight.
Methylpropanediol humectant: Methylpropanediol is a small glycol used to hydrate and to help water-soluble actives penetrate the outer layer of skin more evenly. It leaves almost no tack, which suits watery textures.
Glycerin humectant: Glycerin is the most used humectant in skincare. It draws water into the outer layer of skin and holds it there, and it is one of the very few ingredients whose hydrating effect is settled science rather than marketing. Higher amounts feel tacky, which is why it is usually blended.
1,2-Hexanediol humectant: 1,2-Hexanediol is a glycol used for two reasons: it holds water like glycerin, and it makes a formula harder for microbes to live in, so less traditional preservative is needed. Korean formulas use it heavily for that second reason.
Niacinamide active: Niacinamide is vitamin B3, and it is the most studied active in Korean formulation. It is used at roughly 2 to 5 percent for the look of uneven tone and visible pores, and it is water soluble, stable and comfortable beside almost every other active, which is why it turns up in so many lists.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emollient: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is the light fraction of coconut oil, with the heavy parts removed. It is the workhorse emollient of modern formulas: it softens skin, dissolves oil-soluble actives and absorbs without the greasy weight of a whole plant oil.
Polyglyceryl-3 humectant: Polyglyceryl-3 is three glycerin units joined together. On its own it is a humectant, and it is the backbone the polyglyceryl-3 emulsifiers are built on.
Pentylene Glycol humectant: Pentylene Glycol hydrates and, like the other longer-chain glycols, makes a formula less hospitable to microbes so the preservative system can be lighter. It also improves how evenly a product spreads.
Methyl Trimethicone silicone: Methyl Trimethicone is a light, volatile silicone chosen for a notably dry finish. It thins a formula and disperses powders evenly.
Phenyl Trimethicone silicone: Phenyl Trimethicone is a silicone with a higher refractive index than most, so it adds visible gloss as well as slip. It is common in glow and lip textures.
Centella Asiatica Extract plant extract: Centella Asiatica is the plant behind the whole cica category, sold as gotu kola or Madagascar centella. Its extract is the anchor of Korean formulas built for easily reddened skin, and its work is done by four triterpenes: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid.
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract plant extract: Fig Fruit Extract carries fruit sugars, mild acids and a protein-digesting enzyme. It is used as a hydrating extract with a light smoothing effect.

27 more explained

Laminaria Japonica Extract plant extract: Laminaria Japonica is kombu kelp. Its extract carries alginates, minerals and iodine, and it is used as a hydrating, mineral-rich ingredient.
Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract plant extract: Eclipta Prostrata is false daisy, long used in Ayurvedic and East Asian practice. Its extract is used as a conditioning plant extract, most often in scalp and hair formulas.
Hydrogenated Lecithin emulsifier: Hydrogenated Lecithin is lecithin with its unsaturated bonds filled in, which makes it far more stable. It emulsifies and is the standard shell for the liposomes that carry actives into the outer layer of skin.
Sodium Hyaluronate humectant: Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt of hyaluronic acid, and it is what most products labelled hyaluronic actually contain. The salt dissolves more readily and the molecule is smaller, so it sits in the outer layer of skin rather than only on top of it.
Hydrolyzed Collagen (9,000ppm) protein: Hydrolyzed Collagen is collagen broken into fragments small enough to dissolve in water. It cannot become collagen in skin; what it does is hold water at the surface and leave a smooth, conditioned film.
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate thickener: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is a polymer thickener that holds a gel stable even with a lot of salt or acid in the formula.
Butylene Glycol humectant: Butylene Glycol is a small glycol that does two jobs at once: it holds water in the top layer of skin and it dissolves plant extracts and actives that plain water cannot. It also thins a formula, which is why watery Korean essences lean on it.
Xanthan Gum thickener: Xanthan Gum is a polysaccharide made by fermenting sugar. It thickens a watery formula into a gel and holds the whole thing in suspension so nothing separates. Too much of it and a serum turns stringy, which is why it appears in fractions of a percent.
Adenosine active: Adenosine is a nucleoside that Korea's own cosmetic authority recognises as a wrinkle-care functional ingredient, which is why it appears on so many Korean lists at a low level. It is used for the look of fine lines and is stable and well tolerated.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer thickener: This is a carbomer relative with fatty side chains, so it thickens and stabilises an emulsion at the same time. It gives a light gel-cream body rather than a heavy one.
Disodium EDTA chelator: EDTA is a chelator: it locks up trace metal ions from water and packaging that would otherwise turn a formula cloudy, off-colour or rancid. It does nothing to skin and appears at a fraction of a percent.
Tromethamine pH adjuster: Tromethamine neutralises acidic thickeners such as carbomer so they gel, and holds a formula near skin-friendly pH. It is used at a fraction of a percent.
Fructooligosaccharides humectant: Fructooligosaccharides are short fructose chains used as humectants and as food for the skin's own resident microbes.
Beta-Glucan polysaccharide: Beta-Glucan is a polysaccharide from oats or yeast. It holds a large amount of water, forms a soothing film, and is one of the ingredients formulators reach for in products aimed at reactive skin.
Collagen Amino Acids (50ppm) amino acid: Collagen Amino Acids are collagen broken all the way down to its individual amino acids. At that size they act as humectants, the same job skin's own amino acids do.
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid humectant: Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid cut into much shorter fragments. The smaller the fragment, the further into the outer layer it can settle, which is why serums stack several sizes together instead of using one.
Ceramide NP barrier lipid: Ceramide NP is the most used cosmetic ceramide, the same class of lipid that makes up roughly half the mortar between cells in the outer layer of skin. Added to a cream it slots into that structure, which is why ceramide formulas feel less leaky rather than merely greasy.
Elastin protein: Elastin is the stretchy structural protein that sits alongside collagen in the dermis. It cannot enter skin from the outside, so in a formula it is a water-holding, film-forming protein.
Collagen (10ppm) protein: Collagen is the structural protein that makes up most of the dermis. Applied on top it is far too large to enter skin, so in a formula it works as a humectant and a smoothing film former.
Hyaluronic Acid humectant: Hyaluronic Acid is a sugar chain the body already makes, and one gram of it can hold several litres of water. In a formula it is a humectant that pulls water to the surface of skin and holds it in a film, which is what makes skin look plumper while it is there.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate emollient: A thick, cushioned ester that gives lip and balm formulas their gloss and their cling. It is heavy enough to stay where it is put.
Silica Dimethyl Silylate absorbent: Silica Dimethyl Silylate is silica with a silicone surface coating. It absorbs oil, thickens and stops powders clumping.
Lactobacillus Ferment ferment: Lactobacillus Ferment is the liquid left after lactobacillus bacteria have fermented a plant or milk substrate. It carries the small molecules the fermentation produced, including lactic acid and amino acids, and is used for the look of dull, uneven skin.
Fragrance fragrance: Fragrance, or Parfum, is a single declaration standing for a whole scent blend, which can be dozens of materials. Regulators allow it as a trade secret, so a list showing only this word does not say what the scent is made of. It is the most common trigger named by people with reactive skin.
Ethylhexylglycerin preservative booster: Ethylhexylglycerin softens skin and boosts a preservative system, which is why it is nearly always sitting beside phenoxyethanol or 1,2-hexanediol. It also cuts down the odour bacteria produce, so it turns up in deodorising products.
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate peptide: A synthetic peptide sold as Syn-Ake, built to mimic a peptide sequence found in snake venom. It is used for the look of expression lines.
Magnesium Chloride mineral: Magnesium Chloride is the magnesium salt that makes sea water taste bitter. In a formula it is a mineral salt in the water phase and helps set gum gels.

Inside the formula

Ingredients declared

Last

Fragrance on the list

5Niacinamide15Soluble Collagen23Adenosine39Lactobacillus Ferment44Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric

5Niacinamide
15Soluble Collagen
23Adenosine
39Lactobacillus Ferment
44Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric

Where each key active sits on the declared ingredient list, by entry number. Position is proportion: the further forward, the larger its share.

How to use

Pat into clean, slightly damp skin after toner and before serum, morning and/or night, as a lightweight hydrating layer.

Worth knowing

Patch test this essence on a small area and wait a day before using it more widely, especially with Soluble Collagen on the list.
This list names Fragrance, so skip it if fragrance components are something you avoid.

Complete the routine

This itemCentellian24 Revitalizing Collagen Essence 30ml$27.50
Prep after cleansing, before the treatment stepCENTELLIAN24 Madeca Cica Mist 100ml$22.50
Cleanse first, so the next step meets bare skinCENTELLIAN24 Madeca Enzyme Cleansing Powder 60g$27.50

Total for 3 items$77.50

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CENTELLIAN24 Revitalizing Collagen Essence 30ml

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Centellian24, Korean-market original

The Original Korean Formula essence from Centellian24, 30ml formulated with Soluble Collagen and Niacinamide, shipped from California or direct from Korea.

Verify your unit when it arrives

Korean-market stock with the original barcode and batch code intact, exactly as it left Korea.

On the unit itself

The Korean-market barcode, unaltered from the retail package.
The manufacturer’s batch code, exactly as the maker printed it.

정품Genuine article, Korean-market stock

What professionals say

What skin-care professionals say about the key actives in this formula, quoted from the medical sources linked beside each.

Topical collagen is a very large molecule that's too big to absorb into the skin.
Michelle Henry, MDDermatologist, Cosmopolitan
At present, urea is widely used in dermatology to improve skin barrier function and as one of the most common moisturizers and keratolytic agents.
Jaime Piquero-Casals, MDDermatologist, Dermatology and Therapy

1 more professional perspective

Niacinamide helps reduce the appearance of pores in a few ways. By strengthening the skin barrier and improving elasticity, pores appear less noticeable and more even.
Ashlyn YankeAesthetician, Cleveland Clinic