Where does this cleansing oil go in my routine?

As the first of two evening cleanses, on dry skin and dry hands, before any water reaches the face. Nothing goes under it: this cleansing oil is the step everything else in the routine lands on top of. If you are adding it to a routine you already like, give it a week on its own first, so what you see is the Salicylic Acid and not three changes at once.

Does this cleansing oil contain fragrance?

Yes. The ingredient list names Fragrance. It sits on the panel printed on this page, so you can read the position for yourself before you buy. If fragrance components are something you avoid, this cleansing oil is not the one.

What else is on the list besides Salicylic Acid?

Gluconolactone, Lactobacillus Ferment and Tocopherol. The order they are printed in on this cleansing oil's panel is the order on the box, so you can see where Salicylic Acid sits relative to them. Further down the same panel: Beta-Carotene, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract and Centella Asiatica Extract.

HANYUL

Pure Artemisia Calming Cleansing Oil 200ml

Name: HANYUL Pure Artemisia Calming Cleansing Oil 200ml
Brand: HANYUL
SKU: 9945320797
Price: 37.5 USD
Availability: InStock

Artemisia argyi leaf extract and leaf water both appear, with Salicylic Acid, Gluconolactone and a Lactobacillus ferment, over a caprylic triglyceride and palmitate oil base. 200 ml, emulsified off with water.

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$37.50

200 ml

$18.75 per 100 ml

Korean-market formula
Ships from California or direct from Korea
Korean barcode and batch code intact

Suited to: Congested skinUneven textureDehydrated skinSensitive skin

Helps with: Shoppers looking for Salicylic Acid in a cleansing oilRoutines that want Salicylic Acid and Gluconolactone in one stepFilling the cleansing oil step with a Korean-market formula

One-time purchase

$37.50

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How it works

The Pure Artemisia Calming Cleansing Oil is a 200ml cleansing oil, used as the first of two evening cleanses, on dry skin and dry hands, before any water reaches the face. The exfoliant it is built around is Salicylic Acid, named twenty-first on its own ingredient list. The same list carries Gluconolactone, Lactobacillus Ferment and Tocopherol, so the exfoliant is not the only thing on it worth naming. How much of the Salicylic Acid stays on the skin, and for how long, is decided by the cleansing oil format rather than by the list alone. HANYUL sells this Salicylic Acid cleansing oil in Korea, and this is that version.

Key benefits

Salicylic Acid, the exfoliant this cleansing oil is built around
Gluconolactone on the same list, an exfoliant
Lactobacillus Ferment on the same list, a ferment
Tocopherol and Beta-Carotene on the same list, antioxidants
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract and Centella Asiatica Extract further down the same list
Isopropyl Palmitate and Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil further down the same list

Key actives

13Lactobacillus Fermentferment

Lactobacillus Ferment is the liquid left after lactobacillus bacteria have fermented a plant or milk substrate. It carries the small molecules the fermentation produced, including lactic acid and amino acids, and is used for the look of dull, uneven skin. It is named thirteenth on this cleansing oil's list, alongside Salicylic Acid.

All products with Lactobacillus Ferment

21Salicylic Acidexfoliant

It loosens the dead cells that block pores and is used for the look of congested, oily skin. On this cleansing oil's own ingredient list it is named twenty-first.

All products with Salicylic Acid

22Gluconolactoneexfoliant

Gluconolactone is a PHA, the gentlest exfoliant class. It is named twenty-second on this cleansing oil's list, alongside Salicylic Acid.

All products with Gluconolactone

26Tocopherolantioxidant

Tocopherol is vitamin E. It is an oil-soluble antioxidant that protects the oils in a formula from going rancid and works on skin as an emollient, and it is regularly paired with vitamin C because each keeps the other going for longer. It is named twenty-sixth on this cleansing oil's list, alongside Salicylic Acid.

All products with Tocopherol

28Beta-Caroteneantioxidant

Beta-Carotene is an orange plant pigment and a vitamin A precursor. It is used as an antioxidant and it tints a formula, which is often why it is there. It is named twenty-eighth on this cleansing oil's list, alongside Salicylic Acid.

All products with Beta-Carotene

1 of 2

25 of 28 explained

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emollient: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is the light fraction of coconut oil, with the heavy parts removed. It is the workhorse emollient of modern formulas: it softens skin, dissolves oil-soluble actives and absorbs without the greasy weight of a whole plant oil.
Isopropyl Palmitate emollient: One of the oldest cosmetic emollient esters. It softens skin and thins a formula, and it is more occlusive than the very light modern esters.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate emollient: Ethylhexyl Palmitate is a palm-derived ester used as a light emollient and a solvent for pigment. It gives a smooth, non-greasy slip.
Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate emulsifier: A plant-derived emulsifier and mild cleanser. It is common in cleansing oils that rinse without leaving a film.
Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate emulsifier: A polyglycerin ester carrying two fatty chains, which makes it more oil-loving than the single-chain version. It suits cleansing oils and rich creams.
Water solvent: Water is the base almost every serum, toner and cream is built on. It dissolves the water-loving ingredients and sets how light the finished texture feels. On an INCI list it is usually first, which only means it is the largest single ingredient by weight.
Fragrance fragrance: Fragrance, or Parfum, is a single declaration standing for a whole scent blend, which can be dozens of materials. Regulators allow it as a trade secret, so a list showing only this word does not say what the scent is made of. It is the most common trigger named by people with reactive skin.
2,3-Butanediol humectant: 2,3-Butanediol is a fermentation-derived glycol. It hydrates and, like the other longer glycols, makes a formula harder for microbes to grow in.
Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) Seed Oil emollient: Sunflower Seed Oil is high in linoleic acid, the fatty acid dry and blemish-prone skin is often short of. It is a light, non-fragrant emollient and one of the better tolerated plant oils.
Propanediol humectant: Propanediol is a plant-derived glycol used in place of propylene glycol. It hydrates, carries actives into solution, and gives a lighter, less sticky slip than glycerin at the same strength.
Lecithin emulsifier: Lecithin is a soy or sunflower-derived phospholipid, the same class of molecule cell membranes are built from. It emulsifies oil into water and is the basis of the liposomes formulators use to carry actives.
Daucus Carota Sativa (carrot) Root Extract plant extract: Carrot Root Extract carries carotenoids, which give it a strong orange colour. It is used as an antioxidant extract and can tint a formula.

13 more explained

Lactobacillus Ferment ferment: Lactobacillus Ferment is the liquid left after lactobacillus bacteria have fermented a plant or milk substrate. It carries the small molecules the fermentation produced, including lactic acid and amino acids, and is used for the look of dull, uneven skin.
1,2-Hexanediol humectant: 1,2-Hexanediol is a glycol used for two reasons: it holds water like glycerin, and it makes a formula harder for microbes to live in, so less traditional preservative is needed. Korean formulas use it heavily for that second reason.
Arginine amino acid: Arginine is an amino acid that does two jobs here: it holds water in the outer layer of skin, and it neutralises acidic gelling agents, which is why it often stands in for a synthetic pH adjuster.
Phytosterols emollient: Phytosterols are plant sterols, structurally close to the cholesterol in skin's own lipid layer. They soften skin and help the oil phase of a formula hold together.
Butylene Glycol humectant: Butylene Glycol is a small glycol that does two jobs at once: it holds water in the top layer of skin and it dissolves plant extracts and actives that plain water cannot. It also thins a formula, which is why watery Korean essences lean on it.
Glycerin humectant: Glycerin is the most used humectant in skincare. It draws water into the outer layer of skin and holds it there, and it is one of the very few ingredients whose hydrating effect is settled science rather than marketing. Higher amounts feel tacky, which is why it is usually blended.
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate emulsifier: A chicory-sugar polymer with a fatty chain attached. It stabilises an emulsion by forming a film at the oil and water boundary rather than acting as a classic surfactant.
Citric Acid pH adjuster: Citric Acid is used in tiny amounts to bring a formula to the pH its actives need, not as an exfoliant at that level. It is an AHA, so at much higher concentrations it can also exfoliate.
Salicylic Acid exfoliant: Salicylic Acid is a BHA, and the only common exfoliant that is oil soluble, so it can work inside a pore rather than only on the surface. It loosens the dead cells that block pores and is used for the look of congested, oily skin.
Gluconolactone exfoliant: Gluconolactone is a PHA, the gentlest exfoliant class. Its molecule is too large to penetrate quickly, so it smooths the surface without the sting of an AHA, and it is a humectant at the same time.
Tocopherol antioxidant: Tocopherol is vitamin E. It is an oil-soluble antioxidant that protects the oils in a formula from going rancid and works on skin as an emollient, and it is regularly paired with vitamin C because each keeps the other going for longer.
Ethylhexylglycerin preservative booster: Ethylhexylglycerin softens skin and boosts a preservative system, which is why it is nearly always sitting beside phenoxyethanol or 1,2-hexanediol. It also cuts down the odour bacteria produce, so it turns up in deodorising products.
Beta-Carotene antioxidant: Beta-Carotene is an orange plant pigment and a vitamin A precursor. It is used as an antioxidant and it tints a formula, which is often why it is there.

Inside the formula

Ingredients declared

Fragrance on the list

13Lactobacillus Ferment21Salicylic Acid26Tocopherol28Beta-Carotene

13Lactobacillus Ferment
21Salicylic Acid
26Tocopherol
28Beta-Carotene

Where each key active sits on the declared ingredient list, by entry number. Position is proportion: the further forward, the larger its share.

How to use

Use this cleansing oil PM (or AM if wearing sunscreen the night before), as the first cleanser in a double cleanse. Pat or smooth it on rather than rubbing, and give it a moment to settle before layering the next step.

Worth knowing

Patch test this cleansing oil on a small area and wait a day before using it more widely, especially with Salicylic Acid on the list.
This list names Fragrance, so skip it if fragrance components are something you avoid.
Citric Acid and Gluconolactone on this list makes this cleansing oil an exfoliating step, so do not stack it with another one on the same night.

Complete the routine

This itemHANYUL Pure Artemisia Calming Cleansing Oil 200ml$37.50
The treatment step of this routineHANYUL Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum 40ml$52.50
An as-needed step, in place of the prep layerHANYUL Pure Aretemisia Watwery Calming Wrapping Mask Sheet 10P$32.50

Total for 3 items$122.50

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HANYUL Pure Artemisia Calming Cleansing Oil 200ml

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HANYUL, Korean-market original

The Original Korean Formula cleansing oil from HANYUL, 200ml formulated with Salicylic Acid and Gluconolactone, shipped from California or direct from Korea.

Verify your unit when it arrives

Korean-market stock with the original barcode and batch code intact, exactly as it left Korea.

On the unit itself

The Korean-market barcode, unaltered from the retail package.
The manufacturer’s batch code, exactly as the maker printed it.

정품Genuine article, Korean-market stock

What professionals say

What skin-care professionals say about the key actives in this formula, quoted from the medical sources linked beside each.

BHAs like salicylic acid get really deep into the pores, whereas the water-soluble ones don't go as deep.
Samantha Stein, PA-CDermatology physician assistant, Cleveland Clinic
Those bacteria are essential to fight infection, protect against environmental damage, regulate pH levels and keep the skin hydrated and healthy.
Shilpi Khetarpal, MDDermatologist, Cleveland Clinic

1 more professional perspective

This means that gluconolactone acts as an exfoliating acid, but also as a moisturizer. It has moisturizing, soothing, and lightening properties, working well on dry skin.
Paola PeruginiPhD, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology