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NOSCA9 Deep Pore Cleansing Foam$14.11Isntree
Mugwort Calming Deep Cleansing Balm 100ml
Isntree Mugwort Calming Deep Cleansing Balm is a 100ml cleansing balm whose ingredient list carries Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract alongside Capryloyl Salicylic Acid and Salicylic Acid.
No reviews yet$20.99
100ml
$20.99 per 100 ml
- Korean-market formula
- Ships from California or direct from Korea
- Korean barcode and batch code intact
- Suited to
- Congested skinUneven textureDry skinCompromised barrier
- Helps with
- Shoppers looking for Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract in a cleansing balmRoutines that want Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract and Capryloyl Salicylic Acid in one stepFilling the cleansing balm step with a Korean-market formula
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- 30-day returns
- Free US shipping on orders of $100 or more
- Tracked delivery to your door
Key benefits
- Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, the plant extract this cleansing balm is built around
- Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Gluconolactone on the same list, exfoliants
- Synthetic Wax on the same list, an occlusive
- Cetyl Ethylhexanoate and Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil further down the same list
- Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil and Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil further down the same list
- Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract named thirtieth on the manufacturer list printed on this page
Key actives
5Synthetic Waxocclusive
Synthetic Wax is a purpose-built hydrocarbon wax used to structure balms and sticks. It is odourless and does not oxidise, unlike most natural waxes. The panel names it fifth on this cleansing balm's list, beside Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract.
25Capryloyl Salicylic Acidexfoliant
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid is salicylic acid with a fatty tail, sometimes sold as LHA. It stays nearer the surface than salicylic acid and works at a higher pH, so it exfoliates more evenly and more gently. It is named twenty-fifth on this cleansing balm's list, alongside Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract.
27Salicylic Acidexfoliant
It loosens the dead cells that block pores and is used for the look of congested, oily skin. The panel names it twenty-seventh on this cleansing balm's list, beside Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract.
29Gluconolactoneexfoliant
Gluconolactone is a PHA, the gentlest exfoliant class. It is named twenty-ninth on this cleansing balm's list, alongside Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract.
30Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extractplant extract
Artemisia Princeps is Korean mugwort, one of the country's oldest skincare and bathing plants. Its leaf extract is used for the look of reddened, reactive skin, and it is the ingredient behind the mugwort category. The name on the box points at it, and it is named thirtieth on this cleansing balm's own ingredient list.
Inside the formula
Inside the formula
34
Ingredients declared
No fragrance
on the list
5Synthetic Wax25Capryloyl Salicylic27Salicylic Acid29Gluconolactone
- 5Synthetic Wax
- 25Capryloyl Salicylic
- 27Salicylic Acid
- 29Gluconolactone
Where each key active sits on the declared ingredient list, by entry number. Position is proportion: the further forward, the larger its share.
Isntree Mugwort Calming Deep Cleansing Balm 100ml
Where does this cleansing balm go in my routine?
As the first of two evening cleanses, on dry skin, before any water reaches the face. Nothing goes under it: this cleansing balm is the step everything else in the routine lands on top of. If you are adding it to a routine you already like, give it a week on its own first, so what you see is the Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract and not three changes at once.
What else is on the list besides Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract?
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Gluconolactone. The order they are printed in on this cleansing balm's panel is the order on the box, so you can see where Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract sits relative to them. Further down the same panel: Synthetic Wax, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate and Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil.
Not on the ingredient list below: fragrance or parfum, denatured or SD alcohol, silicones, parabens, sulfate surfactants and mineral oil or petrolatum.
Full INCI (34): Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Synthetic Wax, PEG-10 Isostearate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Chromium Oxide Greens, Caprylyl Glycol, Iron Oxide Black, CalophyllumInophyllum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water, Water, Butylene Glycol, Phytosterols, Panthenol, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Citric Acid, Salicylic Acid, Artemisia Vulgaris Oil, Gluconolactone, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
33 of 34 explained
- Cetyl Ethylhexanoate emollient
- Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is a synthetic ester used as a dry-feeling emollient. It spreads easily, leaves a silky rather than oily finish, and helps disperse pigments and UV filters evenly.
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emollient
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is the light fraction of coconut oil, with the heavy parts removed. It is the workhorse emollient of modern formulas: it softens skin, dissolves oil-soluble actives and absorbs without the greasy weight of a whole plant oil.
- Ethylhexyl Palmitate emollient
- Ethylhexyl Palmitate is a palm-derived ester used as a light emollient and a solvent for pigment. It gives a smooth, non-greasy slip.
- PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate emulsifier
- A nonionic emulsifier built on glycerin and branched fatty acids. Cleansing oils and balms use it so they emulsify the moment water is added.
- Synthetic Wax occlusive
- Synthetic Wax is a purpose-built hydrocarbon wax used to structure balms and sticks. It is odourless and does not oxidise, unlike most natural waxes.
- PEG-10 Isostearate emulsifier
- A nonionic emulsifier made by attaching a short polyethylene glycol chain to a branched fatty acid. It keeps oil dispersed in water.
- Sorbitan Sesquioleate emulsifier
- Sorbitan Sesquioleate is a water-in-oil emulsifier and pigment disperser. Cleansing oils use it so water can be worked into the oil at the rinse.
- Chromium Oxide Greens colorant
- Chromium Oxide Greens is a dull green mineral pigment. It is inert, sits on the surface, and is used in small amounts to correct the look of redness in a tinted product.
- Caprylyl Glycol preservative booster
- Caprylyl Glycol is a glycol that conditions skin and, more importantly, strengthens a preservative system so less of the traditional preservative is needed. It appears in most modern formulas built without parabens.
- Iron Oxide Black colorant
- Iron Oxides are mineral pigments in red, yellow and black, and the three are blended to make every skin-tone shade in a tinted product. They are inert and sit on the surface.
- Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil emollient
- Sunflower Seed Oil is high in linoleic acid, the fatty acid dry and blemish-prone skin is often short of. It is a light, non-fragrant emollient and one of the better tolerated plant oils.
- Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil emollient
- Grape Seed Oil is a light, linoleic-acid-rich oil with a fast, dry absorption. It is one of the plant oils used where an oil is wanted without a heavy finish.
21 more explained
- Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil emollient
- Neem seed oil, pressed from the kernel. It is thick, strongly scented, and used for the look of congested skin.
- Ethylhexylglycerin preservative booster
- Ethylhexylglycerin softens skin and boosts a preservative system, which is why it is nearly always sitting beside phenoxyethanol or 1,2-hexanediol. It also cuts down the odour bacteria produce, so it turns up in deodorising products.
- Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil emollient
- Sweet almond oil, one of the oldest cosmetic oils. It is high in oleic acid, which makes it richer and slower to absorb than the linoleic oils.
- Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil emollient
- Evening primrose oil, the main plant source of gamma-linolenic acid. It absorbs fast and oxidises fast, so formulas pair it with an antioxidant.
- Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil emollient
- Jojoba Oil is a liquid wax rather than a true oil, and its structure is close to human sebum, which is why it absorbs so readily. It is an emollient that leaves a soft, non-greasy finish.
- Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water plant extract
- Korean mugwort distillate, used in place of part of the plain water in a formula. It is far more dilute than the extract.
- Water solvent
- Water is the base almost every serum, toner and cream is built on. It dissolves the water-loving ingredients and sets how light the finished texture feels. On an INCI list it is usually first, which only means it is the largest single ingredient by weight.
- Butylene Glycol humectant
- Butylene Glycol is a small glycol that does two jobs at once: it holds water in the top layer of skin and it dissolves plant extracts and actives that plain water cannot. It also thins a formula, which is why watery Korean essences lean on it.
- Phytosterols emollient
- Phytosterols are plant sterols, structurally close to the cholesterol in skin's own lipid layer. They soften skin and help the oil phase of a formula hold together.
- Panthenol humectant
- Panthenol is pro-vitamin B5: skin converts it to pantothenic acid. It is a humectant that holds water and leaves skin feeling soft and less tight, and it is one of the ingredients formulators reach for when a formula also contains something harsh.
- Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil fragrance component
- Tea Tree Leaf Oil is an essential oil from an Australian shrub, carrying terpinen-4-ol. Korean formulas use it in products aimed at blemish-prone skin; it is potent, aromatic, and one of the essential oils most likely to bother reactive skin.
- Capryloyl Salicylic Acid exfoliant
- Capryloyl Salicylic Acid is salicylic acid with a fatty tail, sometimes sold as LHA. It stays nearer the surface than salicylic acid and works at a higher pH, so it exfoliates more evenly and more gently.
- Citric Acid pH adjuster
- Citric Acid is used in tiny amounts to bring a formula to the pH its actives need, not as an exfoliant at that level. It is an AHA, so at much higher concentrations it can also exfoliate.
- Salicylic Acid exfoliant
- Salicylic Acid is a BHA, and the only common exfoliant that is oil soluble, so it can work inside a pore rather than only on the surface. It loosens the dead cells that block pores and is used for the look of congested, oily skin.
- Artemisia Vulgaris Oil fragrance component
- Mugwort essential oil. It scents a formula as well as conditioning it, and essential oils are the class most likely to bother reactive skin.
- Gluconolactone exfoliant
- Gluconolactone is a PHA, the gentlest exfoliant class. Its molecule is too large to penetrate quickly, so it smooths the surface without the sting of an AHA, and it is a humectant at the same time.
- Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract plant extract
- Artemisia Princeps is Korean mugwort, one of the country's oldest skincare and bathing plants. Its leaf extract is used for the look of reddened, reactive skin, and it is the ingredient behind the mugwort category.
- 1,2-Hexanediol humectant
- 1,2-Hexanediol is a glycol used for two reasons: it holds water like glycerin, and it makes a formula harder for microbes to live in, so less traditional preservative is needed. Korean formulas use it heavily for that second reason.
- Sodium Hyaluronate humectant
- Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt of hyaluronic acid, and it is what most products labelled hyaluronic actually contain. The salt dissolves more readily and the molecule is smaller, so it sits in the outer layer of skin rather than only on top of it.
- Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid humectant
- Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid cut into much shorter fragments. The smaller the fragment, the further into the outer layer it can settle, which is why serums stack several sizes together instead of using one.
- Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate humectant
- Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is hyaluronic acid modified to be part oil-loving, so it clings to skin instead of rinsing away. Formulators call it the one that stays put.
- Market
- Korean market, the version sold in Korea
- Made in
- Republic of Korea
- Volume
- 100ml
- Category
- Cleanser
- Actives
- Hyaluronic Acid, Jojoba Seed Oil, Mugwort, Panthenol, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tea Tree
- Ships from
- California or Korea
Orders ship from California or direct from Korea with tracked delivery to your door, and both routes carry the same Korean-market release. Shipping is free on orders of $100 or more. Returns are accepted for 30 days, by mail.
We split shipments free, so one out-of-stock item never holds up the rest of your order.
Where this unit came from
- 1Seoul
Bought as Korean-market stock - 2Barcode
Listed against the Korean barcode on its box - 3California or Korea
Ships to you from either, as the same Korean-market release
We stock the version of a formula that is sold in Korea, not the release a brand prepares for another market under the same name.
Every unit keeps its original barcode and batch code intact, so the unit in your hands can be checked against the brand’s own records.
Every order ships from California or direct from Korea, and returns run for 30 days.
Every claim on this page traces to the unit in the box, the barcode, the batch code and the price you can read for yourself.
How it works
The Mugwort Calming Deep Cleansing Balm is a 100ml cleansing balm, used as the first of two evening cleanses, on dry skin, before any water reaches the face. The plant extract it is built around is Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, named thirtieth on its own ingredient list. The same list carries Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Gluconolactone, so the plant extract is not the only thing on it worth naming. How much of the Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract stays on the skin, and for how long, is decided by the cleansing balm format rather than by the list alone. Isntree sells this Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract cleansing balm in Korea, and this is that version.
How to use
- Use the Mugwort Calming Deep Cleansing Balm as the first of two evening cleanses, on dry skin, before any water reaches the face.
- One scoop with the spatula, warmed between fingertips until it turns to oil, then massaged over dry skin for a minute.
- Emulsify with a little water until it goes milky, rinse, then follow with a water-based cleanser and your toner.
- Once a day, in the evening. Do not skip the second cleanse after it; a balm that is only rinsed leaves a film the next layer has to sit on.
Worth knowing
- Patch test this cleansing balm on a small area and wait a day before using it more widely, especially with Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract on the list.
- Citric Acid and Gluconolactone on this list makes this cleansing balm an exfoliating step, so do not stack it with another one on the same night.
Reviews
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Isntree Mugwort Calming Deep Cleansing Balm 100ml
How it felt, how your skin took it, what you layer it with. Straight answers help the next person choose.
Isntree, Korean-market original
The Original Korean Formula cleansing balm from Isntree, 100ml formulated with Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract and Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, shipped from California or direct from Korea.
Verify your unit when it arrives
Verify your unit when it arrives
Korean-market stock with the original barcode and batch code intact, exactly as it left Korea.
On the unit itself
- The Korean-market barcode, unaltered from the retail package.
- The manufacturer’s batch code, exactly as the maker printed it.
정품Genuine article, Korean-market stock
What professionals say
What professionals say
What skin-care professionals say about the key actives in this formula, quoted from the medical sources linked beside each.
Additionally, it has been shown to improve dry skin in those with atopic dermatitis. It also can be good for those with acne-prone skin because of the antibacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits.
Marisa K. Garshick, MDDermatologist, The Zoe Report BHAs like salicylic acid get really deep into the pores, whereas the water-soluble ones don't go as deep.
Samantha Stein, PA-CDermatology physician assistant, Cleveland Clinic
1 more professional perspective
This means that gluconolactone acts as an exfoliating acid, but also as a moisturizer. It has moisturizing, soothing, and lightening properties, working well on dry skin.
Paola PeruginiPhD, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
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