Where does this cream go in my routine?

As the last skincare step, morning and evening, over serum. Anything thinner than a cream goes on before it, and anything richer goes on after. If you are adding it to a routine you already like, give it a week on its own first, so what you see is the Niacinamide and not three changes at once.

What else is on the list besides Niacinamide?

Adenosine, Ceramide NP and Panax Ginseng Root Water. The order they are printed in on this cream's panel is the order on the box, so you can see where Niacinamide sits relative to them. Further down the same panel: Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Seed Extract and Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract.

Beauty of Joseon

Dynasty Cream (Large)

Name: Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Large)
Brand: Beauty of Joseon
Price: 34.99 USD
Availability: OutOfStock

The large size of Beauty of Joseon's Dynasty Cream, with niacinamide and squalane on the list. It is the last leave-on step at night, and the layer sunscreen goes over in the morning.

Reviewed by Nurcan Saglam, licensed dermo-cosmetic expert (Paris)

No reviews yet

$34.99

100ml

$34.99 per 100 ml

Korean-market formula
Ships from California or direct from Korea
Korean barcode and batch code intact

Suited to: Dry skinCompromised barrierDehydrated skinSensitive skin

Helps with: Shoppers looking for Niacinamide in a creamRoutines that want Niacinamide and Adenosine in one stepFilling the cream step with a Korean-market formula

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Key benefits

Niacinamide, the active this cream is built around
Adenosine on the same list, an active
Ceramide NP on the same list, a barrier lipid
Panax Ginseng Root Water and Coptis Japonica Root Extract on the same list, plant extracts
Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Seed Extract and Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract further down the same list
Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract and Phellinus Linteus Extract further down the same list

Key actives

5Niacinamideactive

Niacinamide is vitamin B3, and it is the most studied active in Korean formulation. On this cream's own ingredient list it is named fifth.

All products with Niacinamide

14Panax Ginseng Root Waterplant extract

Ginseng root distillate used as a base water. It carries far less of the ginsenosides than the root extract does. It is named fourteenth on this cream's list, alongside Niacinamide.

All products with Panax Ginseng Root Water

22Adenosineactive

Adenosine is a nucleoside that Korea's own cosmetic authority recognises as a wrinkle-care functional ingredient, which is why it appears on so many Korean lists at a low level. It is used for the look of fine lines and is stable and well tolerated. It is named twenty-second on this cream's list, alongside Niacinamide.

All products with Adenosine

29Ceramide NPbarrier lipid

Ceramide NP is the most used cosmetic ceramide, the same class of lipid that makes up roughly half the mortar between cells in the outer layer of skin. Added to a cream it slots into that structure, which is why ceramide formulas feel less leaky rather than merely greasy. It is named twenty-ninth on this cream's list, alongside Niacinamide.

All products with Ceramide NP

31Coptis Japonica Root Extractplant extract

Coptis Japonica is a traditional East Asian medicinal root, bright yellow from its berberine content. In skincare its extract is used for the look of congested, oily skin. It is named thirty-first on this cream's list, alongside Niacinamide.

All products with Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Inside the formula

Ingredients declared

No fragrance

on the list

5Niacinamide14Panax Ginseng22Adenosine29Ceramide NP

5Niacinamide
14Panax Ginseng
22Adenosine
29Ceramide NP

Where each key active sits on the declared ingredient list, by entry number. Position is proportion: the further forward, the larger its share.

Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Large)

37 of 37 explained

Water solvent: Water is the base almost every serum, toner and cream is built on. It dissolves the water-loving ingredients and sets how light the finished texture feels. On an INCI list it is usually first, which only means it is the largest single ingredient by weight.
Glycerin humectant: Glycerin is the most used humectant in skincare. It draws water into the outer layer of skin and holds it there, and it is one of the very few ingredients whose hydrating effect is settled science rather than marketing. Higher amounts feel tacky, which is why it is usually blended.
Hydrogenated Polydecene emollient: Hydrogenated Polydecene is a synthetic hydrocarbon emollient used in place of mineral oil. It is stable, has no scent, and gives a cushioned slip without oxidising.
1,2-Hexanediol humectant: 1,2-Hexanediol is a glycol used for two reasons: it holds water like glycerin, and it makes a formula harder for microbes to live in, so less traditional preservative is needed. Korean formulas use it heavily for that second reason.
Niacinamide active: Niacinamide is vitamin B3, and it is the most studied active in Korean formulation. It is used at roughly 2 to 5 percent for the look of uneven tone and visible pores, and it is water soluble, stable and comfortable beside almost every other active, which is why it turns up in so many lists.
Squalane emollient: Squalane is the stable, saturated version of squalene, a lipid human skin already makes. It is a light emollient that absorbs quickly, does not oxidise, and is one of the few oils widely considered safe for blemish-prone skin. Most cosmetic squalane is now from sugarcane or olive rather than shark.
Butylene Glycol humectant: Butylene Glycol is a small glycol that does two jobs at once: it holds water in the top layer of skin and it dissolves plant extracts and actives that plain water cannot. It also thins a formula, which is why watery Korean essences lean on it.
Propanediol humectant: Propanediol is a plant-derived glycol used in place of propylene glycol. It hydrates, carries actives into solution, and gives a lighter, less sticky slip than glycerin at the same strength.
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate emollient: An ester of butylene glycol with coconut-derived fatty acids. It spreads thin and dry rather than greasy, and it dissolves oil-soluble ingredients that will not go into water.
Cetearyl Olivate emulsifier: Cetearyl Olivate is the water-loving half of the olive-derived emulsifier pair. With sorbitan olivate it builds emulsions whose lipid profile is close to skin's own.
Sorbitan Olivate emulsifier: Sorbitan Olivate is an olive-derived emulsifier, the oil-loving half of the pair sold as Olivem. It holds oil into water and leaves a light, non-waxy feel.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer thickener: This is a synthetic thickener that gels quickly and holds an emulsion stable across a wide pH range. It gives a light, non-tacky body.

25 more explained

Xanthan Gum thickener: Xanthan Gum is a polysaccharide made by fermenting sugar. It thickens a watery formula into a gel and holds the whole thing in suspension so nothing separates. Too much of it and a serum turns stringy, which is why it appears in fractions of a percent.
Panax Ginseng Root Water plant extract: Ginseng root distillate used as a base water. It carries far less of the ginsenosides than the root extract does.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer thickener: This is a carbomer relative with fatty side chains, so it thickens and stabilises an emulsion at the same time. It gives a light gel-cream body rather than a heavy one.
Tromethamine pH adjuster: Tromethamine neutralises acidic thickeners such as carbomer so they gel, and holds a formula near skin-friendly pH. It is used at a fraction of a percent.
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil emollient: Safflower seed oil, among the highest-linoleic plant oils. High-linoleic oils feel lighter and absorb faster than high-oleic ones.
Hydrogenated Coconut Oil occlusive: Coconut oil with hydrogen added, which raises its melting point and makes it a firm solid. It gives balms and sticks their body.
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer film former: This is a polymer that forms a moisture-holding film on the surface, usually supplied with glycerin and propylene glycol as a hydrating complex.
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water plant extract: Rice Bran Water is the water from washing or steeping rice bran, the traditional Korean and Japanese rinse. It is used in place of plain water as a formula base.
Ethylhexylglycerin preservative booster: Ethylhexylglycerin softens skin and boosts a preservative system, which is why it is nearly always sitting beside phenoxyethanol or 1,2-hexanediol. It also cuts down the odour bacteria produce, so it turns up in deodorising products.
Adenosine active: Adenosine is a nucleoside that Korea's own cosmetic authority recognises as a wrinkle-care functional ingredient, which is why it appears on so many Korean lists at a low level. It is used for the look of fine lines and is stable and well tolerated.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emollient: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is the light fraction of coconut oil, with the heavy parts removed. It is the workhorse emollient of modern formulas: it softens skin, dissolves oil-soluble actives and absorbs without the greasy weight of a whole plant oil.
Disodium EDTA chelator: EDTA is a chelator: it locks up trace metal ions from water and packaging that would otherwise turn a formula cloudy, off-colour or rancid. It does nothing to skin and appears at a fraction of a percent.
Hyaluronic Acid humectant: Hyaluronic Acid is a sugar chain the body already makes, and one gram of it can hold several litres of water. In a formula it is a humectant that pulls water to the surface of skin and holds it in a film, which is what makes skin look plumper while it is there.
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid humectant: Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid cut into much shorter fragments. The smaller the fragment, the further into the outer layer it can settle, which is why serums stack several sizes together instead of using one.
Sodium Hyaluronate humectant: Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt of hyaluronic acid, and it is what most products labelled hyaluronic actually contain. The salt dissolves more readily and the molecule is smaller, so it sits in the outer layer of skin rather than only on top of it.
Honey Extract humectant: Honey is a natural humectant loaded with sugars and trace acids. In a formula it holds water at the surface and leaves a soft, cushioned feel.
Ceramide NP barrier lipid: Ceramide NP is the most used cosmetic ceramide, the same class of lipid that makes up roughly half the mortar between cells in the outer layer of skin. Added to a cream it slots into that structure, which is why ceramide formulas feel less leaky rather than merely greasy.
Hydrogenated Lecithin emulsifier: Hydrogenated Lecithin is lecithin with its unsaturated bonds filled in, which makes it far more stable. It emulsifies and is the standard shell for the liposomes that carry actives into the outer layer of skin.
Coptis Japonica Root Extract plant extract: Coptis Japonica is a traditional East Asian medicinal root, bright yellow from its berberine content. In skincare its extract is used for the look of congested, oily skin.
Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Seed Extract plant extract: Radish seed extract. It is used as a conditioning plant extract, and radish-root ferment filtrate from the same plant is a common natural preservative.
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract plant extract: Cocoa Extract carries polyphenols and a little caffeine. It is used as an antioxidant plant extract and gives a faint warm tint.
Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract plant extract: Goji berry fruit extract, the gugija brewed as tea in Korea. It carries carotenoids and polysaccharides and is used as an antioxidant conditioning extract.
Dextrin thickener: Dextrin is a starch fragment used to thicken and to give a formula a light, powdery finish. It is also a common carrier for powdered extracts.
Phellinus Linteus Extract plant extract: Sanghuang, a hard bracket mushroom used in Korean and Chinese herbal tradition. Its extract carries water-holding polysaccharides.
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract plant extract: Scutellaria Baicalensis is Chinese skullcap. Its root extract carries baicalin, a well studied plant antioxidant, and it is used for the look of redness.

How it works

The Dynasty Cream is a 100ml cream, used as the last skincare step, morning and evening, over serum. The active it is built around is Niacinamide, named fifth on its own ingredient list. The same list carries Adenosine, Ceramide NP and Panax Ginseng Root Water, so the active is not the only thing on it worth naming. How much of the Niacinamide stays on the skin, and for how long, is decided by the cream format rather than by the list alone. Beauty of Joseon sells this Niacinamide cream in Korea, and this is that version.

How to use

Use it last in the routine, morning and evening, over your serum.
A pea is enough for the whole face. This is a rich cream and more does not sink in faster.
Warm it between the fingertips first, then press it over the face and neck in one pass.
Do not pile it on before sunscreen in the morning, or the sun step will slide over it.

Worth knowing

Patch test this cream on a small area and wait a day before using it more widely, especially with Niacinamide on the list.
Introduce this cream on its own for the first week, so anything your skin does is traceable to the Niacinamide rather than to three changes at once.

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Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Large)

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Beauty of Joseon, Korean-market original

The Original Korean Formula cream from Beauty of Joseon, 100ml formulated with Niacinamide and Adenosine, shipped from California or direct from Korea.

Verify your unit when it arrives

Korean-market stock with the original barcode and batch code intact, exactly as it left Korea.

For Beauty of Joseon, verification is by sourcing chain. Your unit arrives with its Korean-market barcode and batch code intact, and we publish where we buy. The brand has retired its QR scan and is phasing out its authenticity seal, so the box itself is the record.

Source: Beauty of Joseon help centre

On the unit itself

The Korean-market barcode, unaltered from the retail package.
The manufacturer’s batch code, exactly as the maker printed it.

정품Genuine article, Korean-market stock

What professionals say

What skin-care professionals say about the key actives in this formula, quoted from the medical sources linked beside each.

Ceramides are part fatty acid and part amino acid and are able to be the grout that keeps the building blocks of the skin together and functioning as a barrier between the inside and outside world.
Amy Kassouf, MDDermatologist, Cleveland Clinic
Rich in antioxidants, topical ginseng can help to reduce the appearance of various signs of premature aging and repair and protect the skin.
Yunyoung Claire Chang, MDDermatologist, Yahoo Lifestyle

1 more professional perspective

Niacinamide helps reduce the appearance of pores in a few ways. By strengthening the skin barrier and improving elasticity, pores appear less noticeable and more even.
Ashlyn YankeAesthetician, Cleveland Clinic