Where does this cream go in my routine?

As the last skincare step, morning and evening, over serum. Anything thinner than a cream goes on before it, and anything richer goes on after. If you are adding it to a routine you already like, give it a week on its own first, so what you see is the Succinic Acid and not three changes at once.

What else is on the list besides Succinic Acid?

Allantoin, Ceramide NP and Ceramide NS. The order they are printed in on this cream's panel is the order on the box, so you can see where Succinic Acid sits relative to them. Further down the same panel: Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine and Ceramide AP.

Fation

Nosca9 Trouble Cream 45ml

Name: Fation Nosca9 Trouble Cream 45ml
Brand: Fation
SKU: 7415643386
Price: 50.0 USD
Availability: InStock

Meadowfoam seed oil is the third ingredient of this 45 ml Fation cream and Korean mugwort, Artemisia princeps, the twelfth, with five ceramides, cholesterol and phytosphingosine grouped at the tail of the list.

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$50.00

45 ml

$111.11 per 100 ml

Korean-market formula
Ships from California or direct from Korea
Korean barcode and batch code intact

Suited to: Dry skinCompromised barrierDehydrated skinSensitive skin

Helps with: Shoppers looking for Succinic Acid in a creamRoutines that want Succinic Acid and Allantoin in one stepFilling the cream step with a Korean-market formula

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$50.00

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Key benefits

Succinic Acid, the active this cream is built around
Allantoin on the same list, an active
Ceramide NP, Ceramide NS and Cholesterol on the same list, barrier lipids
Phytosphingosine and Ceramide AP further down the same list
Ceramide AS and Ceramide EOP further down the same list
Succinic Acid named thirty-fifth on the manufacturer list printed on this page

Key actives

35Succinic Acidactive

Succinic Acid is a small organic acid used for the look of blemish-prone skin and as a pH adjuster. It is far milder than an AHA at the levels used here. On this cream's own ingredient list it is named thirty-fifth.

All products with Succinic Acid

41Ceramide NPbarrier lipid

Ceramide NP is the most used cosmetic ceramide, the same class of lipid that makes up roughly half the mortar between cells in the outer layer of skin. Added to a cream it slots into that structure, which is why ceramide formulas feel less leaky rather than merely greasy. It is named forty-first on this cream's list, alongside Succinic Acid.

All products with Ceramide NP

42Allantoinactive

Allantoin is a comfrey-derived compound used to condition skin and soften the outer layer so it feels smoother. It is one of the standard additions to a formula built for easily irritated skin. The panel names it forty-second on this cream's list, beside Succinic Acid.

All products with Allantoin

45Ceramide NSbarrier lipid

Ceramide NS is another of the ceramides skin makes for itself. It is used alongside NP and AP so a formula supplies a mixture rather than a single lipid. The panel names it forty-fifth on this cream's list, beside Succinic Acid.

All products with Ceramide NS

47Cholesterolbarrier lipid

Cholesterol is the third of the three lipids the outer layer of skin is built from, with ceramides and fatty acids. Formulas that carry all three are following the ratio skin itself holds. It is named forty-seventh on this cream's list, alongside Succinic Acid.

All products with Cholesterol

Inside the formula

Ingredients declared

No fragrance

on the list

35Succinic Acid41Ceramide NP45Ceramide NS

35Succinic Acid
41Ceramide NP
45Ceramide NS

Where each key active sits on the declared ingredient list, by entry number. Position is proportion: the further forward, the larger its share.

1 of 2

56 of 56 explained

Water solvent: Water is the base almost every serum, toner and cream is built on. It dissolves the water-loving ingredients and sets how light the finished texture feels. On an INCI list it is usually first, which only means it is the largest single ingredient by weight.
Glycerine humectant: Glycerin is the most used humectant in skincare. It draws water into the outer layer of skin and holds it there, and it is one of the very few ingredients whose hydrating effect is settled science rather than marketing. Higher amounts feel tacky, which is why it is usually blended.
Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil emollient: Meadowfoam Seed Oil is over 95 percent long-chain fatty acids, which makes it exceptionally stable against going rancid. It is an emollient that leaves a soft, sealed feel.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emollient: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is the light fraction of coconut oil, with the heavy parts removed. It is the workhorse emollient of modern formulas: it softens skin, dissolves oil-soluble actives and absorbs without the greasy weight of a whole plant oil.
Vinyl Dimethicone silicone: Vinyl Dimethicone is a silicone used as a building block of the crosspolymer gels that give a formula its soft, blurring feel.
Diglycerin humectant: Diglycerin is two glycerin units joined together. It holds water like glycerin but feels less tacky, so it is used where a formula needs hydration without drag.
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate emulsifier: Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate is a plant-derived emulsifier used to hold oil and water together in creams and lotions.
Cetearyl Alcohol fatty alcohol: Cetearyl Alcohol is a waxy solid, not the drying kind of alcohol. It is a blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohols used to thicken a cream and keep oil and water from separating, and it softens skin as it does so.
1,2-Hexanediol humectant: 1,2-Hexanediol is a glycol used for two reasons: it holds water like glycerin, and it makes a formula harder for microbes to live in, so less traditional preservative is needed. Korean formulas use it heavily for that second reason.
Pentylene Glycol humectant: Pentylene Glycol hydrates and, like the other longer-chain glycols, makes a formula less hospitable to microbes so the preservative system can be lighter. It also improves how evenly a product spreads.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate emollient: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate is a light ester emollient that gives a dry, silky finish and disperses pigment evenly.
Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract plant extract: Artemisia Princeps is Korean mugwort, one of the country's oldest skincare and bathing plants. Its leaf extract is used for the look of reddened, reactive skin, and it is the ingredient behind the mugwort category.

44 more explained

Hydrogenated Rice Bran Oil emollient: Rice bran oil with hydrogen added, which turns it from a liquid into a soft solid. It thickens an oil phase and resists going rancid.
Hydrogenated Lecithin emulsifier: Hydrogenated Lecithin is lecithin with its unsaturated bonds filled in, which makes it far more stable. It emulsifies and is the standard shell for the liposomes that carry actives into the outer layer of skin.
Cetearyl Olivate emulsifier: Cetearyl Olivate is the water-loving half of the olive-derived emulsifier pair. With sorbitan olivate it builds emulsions whose lipid profile is close to skin's own.
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate emulsifier: Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid-derived emulsifier. It holds oil and water together and is mild enough for formulas built for reactive skin.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer thickener: This is the thickener behind most gel-cream textures. It builds a soft, bouncy gel that collapses to a light fluid as it is rubbed in.
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate emulsifier: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate is a plant-derived emulsifier used to stabilise creams with a light finish.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer thickener: This is a synthetic thickener that gels quickly and holds an emulsion stable across a wide pH range. It gives a light, non-tacky body.
Isododecane solvent: Isododecane is a light, volatile hydrocarbon. It carries pigments and film formers on smoothly and then evaporates, leaving the film behind and nothing oily.
Hydroxyacetophenone preservative booster: Hydroxyacetophenone is an antioxidant that also strengthens a preservative system, so a formula needs less traditional preservative. Korean formulas pair it with 1,2-hexanediol constantly.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer thickener: This is a carbomer relative with fatty side chains, so it thickens and stabilises an emulsion at the same time. It gives a light gel-cream body rather than a heavy one.
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract plant extract: Chlorella Vulgaris is a freshwater green algae. Its extract carries proteins, chlorophyll and amino acids and is used as a conditioning ingredient.
Glucose humectant: Glucose is a simple sugar used as a humectant and as food for the ferment ingredients in the same formula. It hydrates mildly and adds a soft slip.
Sorbitan Olivate emulsifier: Sorbitan Olivate is an olive-derived emulsifier, the oil-loving half of the pair sold as Olivem. It holds oil into water and leaves a light, non-waxy feel.
Glyceryl Stearate emulsifier: Glyceryl Stearate is glycerin joined to stearic acid, and one of the most used emulsifiers in skincare. It holds oil and water together and thickens the result, and it softens skin at the same time.
Stearyl Alcohol fatty alcohol: Stearyl Alcohol is a solid fatty alcohol used to thicken and stabilise creams. Like the other fatty alcohols it is an emollient, not a solvent.
Panthenol humectant: Panthenol is pro-vitamin B5: skin converts it to pantothenic acid. It is a humectant that holds water and leaves skin feeling soft and less tight, and it is one of the ingredients formulators reach for when a formula also contains something harsh.
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate emulsifier: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is a mild, citrate-modified emulsifier. It holds oil and water together and is chosen for formulas aimed at reactive skin.
Butylene Glycol humectant: Butylene Glycol is a small glycol that does two jobs at once: it holds water in the top layer of skin and it dissolves plant extracts and actives that plain water cannot. It also thins a formula, which is why watery Korean essences lean on it.
Fructooligosaccharides humectant: Fructooligosaccharides are short fructose chains used as humectants and as food for the skin's own resident microbes.
Fructose humectant: Fructose is a simple sugar used as a light humectant. It holds water in the outer layer and often arrives as part of a fruit or honey extract.
Xanthan Gum thickener: Xanthan Gum is a polysaccharide made by fermenting sugar. It thickens a watery formula into a gel and holds the whole thing in suspension so nothing separates. Too much of it and a serum turns stringy, which is why it appears in fractions of a percent.
Stearic Acid fatty acid: Stearic Acid is a saturated fatty acid from plant fats, and one of the three lipid classes skin's own barrier is built from. In a formula it thickens, stabilises the emulsion and can be turned into a soap-style cleanser by adding a base.
Succinic Acid active: Succinic Acid is a small organic acid used for the look of blemish-prone skin and as a pH adjuster. It is far milder than an AHA at the levels used here.
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer silicone: This is a silicone elastomer, a soft springy gel. It fills the look of fine texture and gives the velvety, blurred finish of a primer.
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer silicone: A silicone elastomer powder. It changes how light falls on skin so texture looks softer, absorbs a little oil, and leaves a dry velvet finish.
Sodium Phytate chelator: Sodium Phytate is a rice-derived chelator used in place of EDTA. It ties up trace metals so the formula stays stable and its colour and scent hold.
Sorbitan Isostearate emulsifier: Sorbitan Isostearate is a mild emulsifier that holds water into oil, the direction a cleansing balm or an oil-based cream needs.
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate emulsifier: Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate is a mild sugar-derived emulsifier that holds oil into water and thickens slightly.
Ceramide NP barrier lipid: Ceramide NP is the most used cosmetic ceramide, the same class of lipid that makes up roughly half the mortar between cells in the outer layer of skin. Added to a cream it slots into that structure, which is why ceramide formulas feel less leaky rather than merely greasy.
Allantoin active: Allantoin is a comfrey-derived compound used to condition skin and soften the outer layer so it feels smoother. It is one of the standard additions to a formula built for easily irritated skin.
Beta-Glucan polysaccharide: Beta-Glucan is a polysaccharide from oats or yeast. It holds a large amount of water, forms a soothing film, and is one of the ingredients formulators reach for in products aimed at reactive skin.
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate emulsifier: Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a sugar-derived emulsifier and solubiliser, mild enough to be a standard choice in Korean essences. It dissolves small amounts of oil into water without any tightening feel.
Ceramide NS barrier lipid: Ceramide NS is another of the ceramides skin makes for itself. It is used alongside NP and AP so a formula supplies a mixture rather than a single lipid.
Sodium Heparin polysaccharide: Sodium Heparin is a sulfated sugar chain, structurally close to the heparan sulfate skin makes itself. In a formula it is a strong humectant.
Cholesterol barrier lipid: Cholesterol is the third of the three lipids the outer layer of skin is built from, with ceramides and fatty acids. Formulas that carry all three are following the ratio skin itself holds.
Ethylhexylglycerin preservative booster: Ethylhexylglycerin softens skin and boosts a preservative system, which is why it is nearly always sitting beside phenoxyethanol or 1,2-hexanediol. It also cuts down the odour bacteria produce, so it turns up in deodorising products.
Phytosphingosine barrier lipid: Phytosphingosine is the backbone every ceramide is built on, and skin uses it in its own lipid layer. In a formula it works with ceramides and cholesterol and also keeps the product stable against microbes.
Ceramide AP barrier lipid: Ceramide AP is a second cosmetic ceramide, distinguished by an extra hydroxyl group. Formulas that name several ceramides are copying the mix skin actually holds rather than relying on one.
Ceramide AS barrier lipid: Ceramide AS is a further member of the same lipid family. Its presence usually signals a formula built around a full ceramide profile rather than a single headline one.
Squalane emollient: Squalane is the stable, saturated version of squalene, a lipid human skin already makes. It is a light emollient that absorbs quickly, does not oxidise, and is one of the few oils widely considered safe for blemish-prone skin. Most cosmetic squalane is now from sugarcane or olive rather than shark.
Dipropylene Glycol humectant: Dipropylene Glycol is a glycol used as a solvent and a light humectant. Its main job is keeping the rest of the formula dissolved and the texture fluid rather than adding hydration of its own.
Centella Asiatica Extract plant extract: Centella Asiatica is the plant behind the whole cica category, sold as gotu kola or Madagascar centella. Its extract is the anchor of Korean formulas built for easily reddened skin, and its work is done by four triterpenes: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid.
Ceramide EOP barrier lipid: Ceramide EOP is the ceramide with the longest tail, and in skin it acts as the rivet holding the lipid layers together. It is the third member of the standard cosmetic ceramide trio.
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside surfactant: Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside is a sugar-derived cleansing surfactant. It foams modestly and is mild enough for low-pH cleansers built for reactive skin.

How it works

The Nosca9 Trouble Cream is a 45ml cream, used as the last skincare step, morning and evening, over serum. The active it is built around is Succinic Acid, named thirty-fifth on its own ingredient list. The same list carries Allantoin, Ceramide NP and Ceramide NS, so the active is not the only thing on it worth naming. How much of the Succinic Acid stays on the skin, and for how long, is decided by the cream format rather than by the list alone. Fation sells this Succinic Acid cream in Korea, and this is that version.

How to use

Apply as the last step of the routine, morning and/or night, smoothing over the whole face after serum or essence has absorbed.

Worth knowing

Patch test this cream on a small area and wait a day before using it more widely, especially with Succinic Acid on the list.
Introduce this cream on its own for the first week, so anything your skin does is traceable to the Succinic Acid rather than to three changes at once.

Complete the routine

This itemFation Nosca9 Trouble Cream 45ml$50.00
Prep after cleansing, before the treatment stepFATION Aqua Biome Toner Pad 170ml (80 pads)$20.00
The treatment step of this routineFATION Nosca9 Trouble Serum 30ml$35.00

Total for 3 items$105.00

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FATION Nosca9 Trouble Cream 45ml

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Fation, Korean-market original

The Original Korean Formula cream from Fation, 45ml formulated with Succinic Acid and Allantoin, shipped from California or direct from Korea.

Verify your unit when it arrives

Korean-market stock with the original barcode and batch code intact, exactly as it left Korea.

On the unit itself

The Korean-market barcode, unaltered from the retail package.
The manufacturer’s batch code, exactly as the maker printed it.

정품Genuine article, Korean-market stock

What professionals say

What skin-care professionals say about the key actives in this formula, quoted from the medical sources linked beside each.

Allantoin can tone down the dryness of the individual cells. It increases the water content of the skin, which means it helps to hydrate and moisturize.
Wilma Bergfeld, MDDermatologist, Cleveland Clinic
Ceramides are part fatty acid and part amino acid and are able to be the grout that keeps the building blocks of the skin together and functioning as a barrier between the inside and outside world.
Amy Kassouf, MDDermatologist, Cleveland Clinic