Where does this lotion go in my routine?

As the last skincare step, morning and evening, over serum. Anything thinner than a lotion goes on before it, and anything richer goes on after. If you are adding it to a routine you already like, give it a week on its own first, so what you see is the Niacinamide and not three changes at once.

What else is on the list besides Niacinamide?

Allantoin, Adenosine and Hydrolyzed DNA. The order they are printed in on this lotion's panel is the order on the box, so you can see where Niacinamide sits relative to them. Further down the same panel: Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Tocopherol and Beta-Glucan.

IOPE

XMD STEM III Clinical Recovery Emulsion 130ml

Name: IOPE XMD STEM III Clinical Recovery Emulsion 130ml
Brand: IOPE
SKU: 11868238437
Price: 72.5 USD
Availability: InStock

IOPE MD STEM III Clinical Recovery Emulsion is a 130ml lotion with Niacinamide, used as the last skincare step, morning and evening, over serum.

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$72.50

130 ml

$55.77 per 100 ml

Korean-market formula
Ships from California or direct from Korea
Korean barcode and batch code intact

Suited to: Dry skinCompromised barrierDehydrated skinSensitive skin

Helps with: Shoppers looking for Niacinamide in a lotionRoutines that want Niacinamide and Allantoin in one stepFilling the lotion step with a Korean-market formula

One-time purchase

$72.50

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$65.25

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How it works

The MD STEM III Clinical Recovery Emulsion is a 130ml lotion, used as the last skincare step, morning and evening, over serum. The active it is built around is Niacinamide, named seventh on its own ingredient list. The same list carries Allantoin, Adenosine and Hydrolyzed DNA, so the active is not the only thing on it worth naming. How much of the Niacinamide stays on the skin, and for how long, is decided by the lotion format rather than by the list alone. IOPE sells this Niacinamide lotion in Korea, and this is that version.

Key benefits

Niacinamide, the active this lotion is built around
Allantoin, Adenosine and Hydrolyzed DNA on the same list, actives
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11 on the same list, a peptide
Tocopherol and Beta-Glucan further down the same list
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract and Allium Cepa (Onion) Bulb Extract further down the same list
Niacinamide named seventh on the manufacturer list printed on this page

Key actives

7Niacinamideactive

Niacinamide is vitamin B3, and it is the most studied active in Korean formulation. On this lotion's own ingredient list it is named seventh.

All products with Niacinamide

20Allantoinactive

Allantoin is a comfrey-derived compound used to condition skin and soften the outer layer so it feels smoother. It is one of the standard additions to a formula built for easily irritated skin. The panel names it twentieth on this lotion's list, beside Niacinamide.

All products with Allantoin

28Adenosineactive

Adenosine is a nucleoside that Korea's own cosmetic authority recognises as a wrinkle-care functional ingredient, which is why it appears on so many Korean lists at a low level. It is used for the look of fine lines and is stable and well tolerated. The panel names it twenty-eighth on this lotion's list, beside Niacinamide.

All products with Adenosine

31Hydrolyzed DNAactive

Hydrolyzed DNA is DNA cut into short fragments so it dissolves and spreads. It is the same ingredient family as sodium DNA and polydeoxyribonucleotide, the one Korean formulas market as PDRN. The panel names it thirty-first on this lotion's list, beside Niacinamide.

All products with PDRN

37Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11peptide

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11 is a four-amino-acid peptide used for the look of firmness, and it is the usual partner to acetyl tetrapeptide-9. It is named thirty-seventh on this lotion's list, alongside Niacinamide.

All products with Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

1 of 3

37 of 37 explained

Water solvent: Water is the base almost every serum, toner and cream is built on. It dissolves the water-loving ingredients and sets how light the finished texture feels. On an INCI list it is usually first, which only means it is the largest single ingredient by weight.
Butylene Glycol humectant: Butylene Glycol is a small glycol that does two jobs at once: it holds water in the top layer of skin and it dissolves plant extracts and actives that plain water cannot. It also thins a formula, which is why watery Korean essences lean on it.
Glycerin humectant: Glycerin is the most used humectant in skincare. It draws water into the outer layer of skin and holds it there, and it is one of the very few ingredients whose hydrating effect is settled science rather than marketing. Higher amounts feel tacky, which is why it is usually blended.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene emollient: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a stabilised synthetic hydrocarbon used in place of mineral oil. It is an emollient that leaves a smooth, cushioned film.
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin) emollient: Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin) is a synthetic hydrocarbon emollient. It gives a smooth, silicone-like glide and is completely stable, so it does not go rancid.
Diisostearyl Malate emollient: Diisostearyl Malate is a thick, glossy ester used to hold pigment in suspension and give a cushioned shine. It is the standard emollient in lip products.
Niacinamide active: Niacinamide is vitamin B3, and it is the most studied active in Korean formulation. It is used at roughly 2 to 5 percent for the look of uneven tone and visible pores, and it is water soluble, stable and comfortable beside almost every other active, which is why it turns up in so many lists.
C14-22 Alcohols fatty alcohol: C14-22 Alcohols is a declaration for a mixture of long-chain fatty alcohols. They thicken a cream and hold the emulsion together.
Phenyl Trimethicone silicone: Phenyl Trimethicone is a silicone with a higher refractive index than most, so it adds visible gloss as well as slip. It is common in glow and lip textures.
PCA Dimethicone silicone: A silicone carrying a PCA group, the same humectant skin makes for itself. It gives silicone slip and holds a little water at once.
1,2-Hexanediol humectant: 1,2-Hexanediol is a glycol used for two reasons: it holds water like glycerin, and it makes a formula harder for microbes to live in, so less traditional preservative is needed. Korean formulas use it heavily for that second reason.
Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone silicone: A silicone carrying water friendly alcohol groups at both ends, so it mixes into water based formulas more readily than plain dimethicone. It is used as a conditioning silicone and a co-emulsifier.

25 more explained

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate emulsifier: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is a mild, citrate-modified emulsifier. It holds oil and water together and is chosen for formulas aimed at reactive skin.
Panthenol humectant: Panthenol is pro-vitamin B5: skin converts it to pantothenic acid. It is a humectant that holds water and leaves skin feeling soft and less tight, and it is one of the ingredients formulators reach for when a formula also contains something harsh.
Propanediol humectant: Propanediol is a plant-derived glycol used in place of propylene glycol. It hydrates, carries actives into solution, and gives a lighter, less sticky slip than glycerin at the same strength.
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil occlusive: Plant oil hardened by hydrogenation. It behaves as a soft solid, so it gives balms and sticks their body and slows water loss from the surface.
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside emulsifier: C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside is a sugar-derived emulsifier used in mild, plant-based cream bases.
Glyceryl Stearate emulsifier: Glyceryl Stearate is glycerin joined to stearic acid, and one of the most used emulsifiers in skincare. It holds oil and water together and thickens the result, and it softens skin at the same time.
Cetearyl Alcohol fatty alcohol: Cetearyl Alcohol is a waxy solid, not the drying kind of alcohol. It is a blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohols used to thicken a cream and keep oil and water from separating, and it softens skin as it does so.
Allantoin active: Allantoin is a comfrey-derived compound used to condition skin and soften the outer layer so it feels smoother. It is one of the standard additions to a formula built for easily irritated skin.
Carbomer thickener: Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that only gels once a base neutralises it, which is why arginine or tromethamine sits nearby on the list. It gives the clear, non-stringy gel texture a xanthan formula cannot reach.
Xanthan Gum thickener: Xanthan Gum is a polysaccharide made by fermenting sugar. It thickens a watery formula into a gel and holds the whole thing in suspension so nothing separates. Too much of it and a serum turns stringy, which is why it appears in fractions of a percent.
Glyceryl Caprylate emulsifier: Glyceryl Caprylate is a mild emulsifier that also makes a formula less hospitable to microbes, so it is often part of a preservative-free system.
Mannitol humectant: Mannitol is a sugar alcohol used as a humectant and antioxidant. It hydrates and helps stabilise the rest of the formula against oxidation.
Tromethamine pH adjuster: Tromethamine neutralises acidic thickeners such as carbomer so they gel, and holds a formula near skin-friendly pH. It is used at a fraction of a percent.
Ethylhexylglycerin preservative booster: Ethylhexylglycerin softens skin and boosts a preservative system, which is why it is nearly always sitting beside phenoxyethanol or 1,2-hexanediol. It also cuts down the odour bacteria produce, so it turns up in deodorising products.
Sodium Metaphosphate chelator: A phosphate salt that ties up metal ions in water. It also stops the calcium and magnesium in hard water from flattening a cleanser foam.
Adenosine active: Adenosine is a nucleoside that Korea's own cosmetic authority recognises as a wrinkle-care functional ingredient, which is why it appears on so many Korean lists at a low level. It is used for the look of fine lines and is stable and well tolerated.
Dextrin thickener: Dextrin is a starch fragment used to thicken and to give a formula a light, powdery finish. It is also a common carrier for powdered extracts.
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract plant extract: Cocoa Extract carries polyphenols and a little caffeine. It is used as an antioxidant plant extract and gives a faint warm tint.
Hydrolyzed DNA active: Hydrolyzed DNA is DNA cut into short fragments so it dissolves and spreads. It is the same ingredient family as sodium DNA and polydeoxyribonucleotide, the one Korean formulas market as PDRN.
Hyaluronic Acid humectant: Hyaluronic Acid is a sugar chain the body already makes, and one gram of it can hold several litres of water. In a formula it is a humectant that pulls water to the surface of skin and holds it in a film, which is what makes skin look plumper while it is there.
Beta-Glucan polysaccharide: Beta-Glucan is a polysaccharide from oats or yeast. It holds a large amount of water, forms a soothing film, and is one of the ingredients formulators reach for in products aimed at reactive skin.
Lecithin emulsifier: Lecithin is a soy or sunflower-derived phospholipid, the same class of molecule cell membranes are built from. It emulsifies oil into water and is the basis of the liposomes formulators use to carry actives.
Allium Cepa (Onion) Bulb Extract plant extract: Onion Bulb Extract carries quercetin and sulphur compounds. Korean formulas use it for the look of blemish marks and uneven tone, and it is the namesake ingredient of the onion skincare line.
Tocopherol antioxidant: Tocopherol is vitamin E. It is an oil-soluble antioxidant that protects the oils in a formula from going rancid and works on skin as an emollient, and it is regularly paired with vitamin C because each keeps the other going for longer.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11 peptide: Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11 is a four-amino-acid peptide used for the look of firmness, and it is the usual partner to acetyl tetrapeptide-9.

Inside the formula

Ingredients declared

No fragrance

on the list

7Niacinamide20Allantoin28Adenosine31Hydrolyzed DNA37Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

7Niacinamide
20Allantoin
28Adenosine
31Hydrolyzed DNA
37Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Where each key active sits on the declared ingredient list, by entry number. Position is proportion: the further forward, the larger its share.

How to use

Smooth over the face as one of the last steps of a routine, morning or night.

Worth knowing

Patch test this lotion on a small area and wait a day before using it more widely, especially with Niacinamide on the list.
Introduce this lotion on its own for the first week, so anything your skin does is traceable to the Niacinamide rather than to three changes at once.

Complete the routine

This itemIOPE XMD STEM III Clinical Recovery Emulsion 130ml$72.50
Seal the routine in as the last stepIOPE SUPER VITAL EMULSION 150ml$87.50
The treatment step of this routineIOPE RETINOL RETI-JECTION SERUM 30ml$100.00

Total for 3 items$260.00

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IOPE XMD STEM III Clinical Recovery Emulsion 130ml

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IOPE, Korean-market original

The Original Korean Formula lotion from IOPE, 130ml formulated with Niacinamide and Allantoin, shipped from California or direct from Korea.

Verify your unit when it arrives

Korean-market stock with the original barcode and batch code intact, exactly as it left Korea.

On the unit itself

The Korean-market barcode, unaltered from the retail package.
The manufacturer’s batch code, exactly as the maker printed it.

정품Genuine article, Korean-market stock

What professionals say

What skin-care professionals say about the key actives in this formula, quoted from the medical sources linked beside each.

Allantoin can tone down the dryness of the individual cells. It increases the water content of the skin, which means it helps to hydrate and moisturize.
Wilma Bergfeld, MDDermatologist, Cleveland Clinic
Niacinamide helps reduce the appearance of pores in a few ways. By strengthening the skin barrier and improving elasticity, pores appear less noticeable and more even.
Ashlyn YankeAesthetician, Cleveland Clinic

1 more professional perspective

It's still a very new ingredient in the field of regenerative medicine.
Catherine ChangBeverly Hills board-certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon, Harper's Bazaar